Thursday July 23, 2009: A Time to Remember

So I have just completed my first couple of days traveling around Ghana. By the time I am finished with this I will have seen all of Ghana and really, truly be able to say that I am Ghanaian.

After leaving Takoradi, the capital city of the western region, we trekked up far north west to the Sehwe tribes. We traveled there to check out some sites for the self help program. After traveling for 7 hours on a partial dirt partial paved road and then two hours on a very dirt road up to a small small tribe we arrived sleepy eyed, not the driver, to the small village. The guy who took us there met us in the local town about 30 min away. When we arrived I was met by many men and women who thought at first I was president Obama but then I told them no, but I am Obibini Oboruni - African American and me ye adwuma wo American Embassy, I work at the American embassy and me fi America. I am from America. Many of the kids stood back and watched my every move in amazement. My arrival was the talk of the town. The Ghanaian woman and the Ghanaian driver were not even looked at, all eyes were on me. They were requesting money from the embassy for them to build a school for the kids in the town. As of now, they are schooling in a small shack like building with a fallen in roof.

I approached the men first and they greeted me. They then took me to the site where I could meet some of the teachers and the kids. Big smiles came from all of the kids who saw me there. Keep in mind, this village was very small and very rural. In fact to get there we had to travel a dirt road filled with water and covered by leaves.

After we left the site where the new school would be they then wanted to me to meet the Queen mother. The wife of the village chief. The chief was not around that day. She greeted me and asked me to sit. They then invited all of the village councilmen and elders to come and sit with me. When the queen mother arrived and sat we all sat down. They asked me in the language which was not Twi, what was the purpose of my visit. I told them we had come to see how progress was for the school we had given them money for. So far they had built one of the rooms for the school. As you can imagine, a project even that small would take months or maybe years to develop.

They all sat quietly as I stumbled through speaking Twi to them. They could understand Twi even though this was not the language that they spoke. They sat in immediate silence and watched my every move. Finally I began to speak English and the guy who took us there interpreted in the local language. They kept comparing me to Barack Obama. How did this village know about Barack Obama? Beats me, but they all know about him and what he does in America.

After I told them what I had come to tell them they desired to pray that I travel safe. After we left the woman, Jennifer that was with me told me that they prayed to a god called Kwame. They practiced a traditional religion. She even said, to them, some really pale whites would have been considered a deity.

This town was big in farming cocoa. So I asked to see one and they got one for me and cut it open. I was able to taste the insides. It is better than candy! I did not eat the seeds but I took the sweetness from the seed before they dried out. When I got back to the car there were nearly 50 plantains for us. It was a gift for me and the group. We took them politely and left the smiling children who waved goodbye. Yebehyia bio...I will see you all again.

We left there and headed to Kumasi. The Asante region.

We arrived in Kumasi and had fufu at Jennifer's friends house. She has been feeding us now for three days. She is so happy to have us. I have been able to eat fufu, banku and I even had my hand at making the banku. It takes a lot of strength.

The highlight of the trip so far was my visit to Atrima Boko. A small village just outside of Kumasi about 20 min. We were going there to see how the progress of a small bathroom site had been going. We gave them money to build a bathroom site in the village so that the men and women would have a place to use the restroom. When I arrived we were greeted by the chief of the village. He was, at the time, dressed in regular clothing, so I did not know he was the chief until we went to his house and sat down. Again they invited all of the village elders to sit with us.

They invited me to pour libations and have snapps with them but Jennifer kindly refused saying we were at work and did not drink during work hours. The chief heard me speaking Twi so he said that we should do the entire session in Twi. So he began to talk and Jennifer helped me to translate. In Asante culture you do not normally talk directly to the chief you have to talk through a linguist who then repeats everything you say back to the chief in a better more beautiful twi. The interpreter was a 7ft tall muscular guy who towered over everyone standing near him. I would say something or Jennifer would say something and he would stand and repeat it back to the Chief. The the chief would say something and then the interpreter or would repeat it back to us, even though the chief heard everything the first time. The Asantes believe deeply in tradition.

After we handled business the chief stood up and commissioned me to be Nana Kwaku Appiah. Nana is a title they give chiefs and Appiah means intelligent one or enlightened one. I am now Nana Kawku Appiah. He had made me a progressive chief of the village. In two months time when we come back to commission the new site he will give me chief's garb, sandels and make me a real chief!!! Can you believe it? Wow..the last thing I need is for someone to be calling me chief. My head is already big enough. I will be back in the States in two months so he said I could have someone stand in for me. The interesting thing is this, the chief told me that I am welcome back anytime to come and stay, the village will respect me as an honorary chief and that eventually I would have some land portioned to me to build a house. He even went as far as saying that if I did not have a wife when I came back he would find one in the village for me. LOL. I politely declined the last offer. Then Jennifer, on my behalf, accepted all offerings and later told me that even if you don't want it, you must accept the chief's gifts.

So I guess I will have a wife in Atrima Boko. LOL. My job as a progressive chief, and the Ghanaians who read this can help me to give the correct title of what I am, my job would be to bring what progress I can to the village. I plan to send back school supplies and books for the kids. Please, everyone help me to raise this to send back to them. Anything you donate will be appreciated.

Wow I am a chief, this is moving. So much so that I shed a tear for the first time on the trip. The chief told me that there was no need to trace my lineage and that it really came from this village. He said God called me home and it was my duty to be here.

It was tough to leave the people. Never have I been so honored for such little work. This has to have been the single most memorable moment of the trip. I wish I could be here for the actual ceremony where I am honored. This means a lot to me.

After we left the village we came home and rested for the rest of the day. The next day we visited some other villages in the Asante region. Some in the mountains and some by a natural lake in the Asante region. I cannot remember the name but it is translated as the praised antelope or something. The village was surrounded by a natural lake caused by a meteorite that hit the area long ago. I watched the men fishing in the lake. We bought some fresh fish. So when we asked for it, the elder called the men and they came rowing the boats in with baskets of fresh fish to sell us. We bought 30 cidi worth of fish, which was a whole lot! The kids had just gotten out of school so they were there to help descale (sp) and de-bile the fish. After, they asked us to send them books to read. It makes me feel good to know that some kids ask for books instead of money. After we went back to the car we noticed that it had been washed. The small boy about 7 years old washed the car for us. It was shining. It took them just a few minutes. After wards we gave them 1 cidi which was more than enough for them.

My heart is heavy world. It has only been half way through my trip and already I have laughed, cried, been made a king, and made banku. What's next? We head to the Northern region tomorrow. Me doh Ghana Paa


peace.